
In a market where rates have moved up for most of the year, the question is no longer "should I lock" but "how long, and with what protection." A rate lock is a lender's promise to hold a quoted rate and points for a set number of days while your loan closes. Lock too short and an extension fee eats the savings; lock too long and you pay for days you did not need. This guide explains how locks work, what float-down options really cost, what to do when a lock is about to expire, and how to decide in the current cycle.
When you lock, the lender commits to a specific interest rate and points for a fixed period, commonly 30, 45 or 60 days, with longer locks available for new construction. If market rates rise before closing, you keep the locked rate. If they fall, you are also held to the locked rate unless your lock includes a float-down. The lock is tied to the loan file, not to you: change the property, the loan amount, the program or your credit profile materially and the lender can reprice.
Locks are priced into the loan. A longer lock usually costs more, expressed as a slightly higher rate or more points, because the lender is carrying the interest-rate risk for longer. Illustration: a lender quotes 7.000% for a 30-day lock, 7.050% for 45 days and 7.125% for 60 days on the same loan. Those steps are typical of how the ladder looks, not current market offers.
A float-down lets you lower the locked rate once if market rates fall by a minimum amount (often 0.125 to 0.25 percentage points) before closing. It sounds free; it is not. Lenders charge for it in one of three ways: an upfront fee (a fraction of a point), a slightly higher locked rate than the plain lock, or a rule that the float-down only captures part of the drop. Read which one applies before you value the option.
Illustration: on a $450,000 loan, a float-down priced at 0.25 points costs $1,125. Rates would need to fall enough for the lower payment to recover $1,125 over the time you keep the loan; a 0.25-point rate drop on that balance saves roughly $75 a month on a 30-year term, so the option pays back in about 15 months of ownership. If you expect to keep the loan less than that, or if you think rates are more likely to rise than fall before closing, skip it.
Most purchase closings fit a 45-day lock; refinances often close faster and a 30-day lock is common. If closing slips past the lock date, the lender offers an extension, priced per day or in blocks (seven, fifteen, thirty days), typically as a fraction of a point per block. Illustration: a 15-day extension at 0.125 points on a $450,000 loan is $562. Some lenders waive the first short extension when the delay is theirs; ask, in writing, before you lock.
If the lock expires and you do not extend, the loan reprices at the worse of the current market rate or the original locked rate at most lenders. In a rising market that means the current, higher rate. The lesson is to pick a lock period that covers the realistic closing date plus a cushion, especially for purchases with appraisal, inspection and seller contingencies still open.
A buyer signs a contract on October 20 with closing set for December 1, 42 days later. They lock for 45 days at an illustrative 7.000% with no float-down. Three weeks in, the appraisal comes back late and closing moves to December 8, two days past the lock. Options: a 7-day extension at, say, 0.0625 points ($281), or let the lock expire and reprice. Over the same three weeks the market quote has moved to 7.250%; repricing would cost about $75 a month, or $900 a year, versus a one-time $281. The extension wins easily. Had the buyer locked for 60 days at 7.125% from the start, they would have paid about $38 a month more for the whole loan to avoid a $281 fee; the 45-day lock plus extension was the cheaper path even with the slip. Run your own version in the Mortgage Calculator with both rates and compare the payments, then use the Compare Two Loan Offers tool if two lenders quote different lock ladders.
Q: How long should I lock my mortgage rate?
A: Count the days to your contractual closing date, add seven to ten days for slippage, and lock for the next standard period above that, usually 45 days for a purchase and 30 for a refinance. Extending a lock is normally cheaper than locking far longer than needed.
Q: Is a float-down option worth it?
A: Only if you expect rates to fall by at least the trigger amount before closing and you will keep the loan long enough to recover the option's cost. Price it: option cost divided by the monthly saving from the expected drop gives the months to break even.
Q: What happens if my rate lock expires?
A: Most lenders reprice at the worse of the current market rate or your original locked rate, which in a rising market means the current rate. A short paid extension is usually far cheaper than repricing.
Q: Can a lender change my locked rate?
A: Yes, if your loan file changes materially: a different property, loan amount, program, down payment or credit profile. Keep the file stable between lock and closing.
Compare the payment at the locked rate and at today's quote, and the cost of an extension against repricing:
After reading this guide:
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This content is for educational purposes. Loan terms, rates, and requirements vary by lender and individual circumstances. Consult with a licensed professional for personalized advice.
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